The Editor Hotel Review, Athens

A perfect cappuccino is hard to come by in a hotel restaurant, but The Editor’s baristas know exactly what they’re doing. The small breakfast buffet is perfectly serviceable: bacon and eggs, mini pastries, fresh baguettes, cereals and Greek yoghurt with dried fruit and nuts. Simple, tasty dishes (spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and Greek pecorino; sesame bagels with smoked salmon, Greek yogurt and pickled cucumbers) are served all day at The Publisher, a boxy little restaurant lined with wood, plants and burgundy banquettes.

But it’s the top-floor restaurant, Stories, that steals the show. An open kitchen runs along one side of the long, glass-walled space, with counter stools so you can watch the crack team of chefs in action. Each dish is as pretty as it is delicious: a celeriac ‘steak’ baked in salt, garnished with meaty chanterelles, lemon cream and kale fricassee; a juicy cod fillet with parsley root, cider vinegar and sweet garlic puree; and a deconstructed galaktoboureko — delicately spiced custard in a crunchy nest of filo pastry drizzled with citrus syrup.

The menu descriptions may sound a little fussy, but every dish is perfectly light and balanced, with just the right element of surprise. The cocktails are excellent too: try the peach spritz or ask the bartender to knock you up a cucumber martini topped up with prosecco.

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